Advanced Mechanical and Chemical Paint Decontamination

Never perform decontamination on a hot surface. In Australian summer, this means working before 9:00 AM or inside a ventilated garage. Use an infrared thermometer if available; the surface should be below 30°C. If the paint is hot, chemicals will flash-dry, causing permanent chemical staining.

Perform a thorough wash using a high-alkaline soap (pH 10+) or add 30ml of an All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) to your wash bucket. This helps strip old waxes and surface oils, exposing the bonded contaminants for the chemical stage. Rinse the vehicle twice to ensure no soap residue remains in the gaps.

While many iron removers can be used on wet cars, drying the vehicle first prevents the chemical from being diluted by surface water. This allows the iron remover to react more aggressively with the embedded particles. Use a dedicated large-loop drying towel or a cordless blower.

Ensure your clay lubricant is mixed according to the bottle instructions. If using a concentrated clay lube like Rinseless Wash (ONR), use a ratio of 1:64. Prepare your clay bar by kneading it into a flat pancake shape roughly 5cm in diameter.

Starting from the bottom of the vehicle (where iron buildup is heaviest), spray the iron remover liberally across the dry panels. Avoid glass and plastic trim where possible. Let the product dwell for 3-5 minutes. You will see a purple 'bleeding' effect as the chemical reacts with sintered iron particles.

On heavily contaminated areas (behind wheel arches), use a damp microfiber mitt to gently agitate the purple liquid. This helps the chemical penetrate deeper into the iron deposits. Do not let the product dry on the paint; if it starts to dry, mist the area with a small amount of water.

Thoroughly rinse the entire vehicle, paying special attention to window seals, door handles, and badges where the iron remover might hide. These chemicals are acidic or pH-balanced but can be corrosive if left in crevices. Rinse until the water runs clear and no purple residue is visible.

Inspect the lower sills and front bumper for black tar spots or hardened tree sap. Apply a solvent-based tar remover to a microfiber pad and hold it against the spot for 30 seconds to dissolve the bond. Wipe away gently. This prevents your clay bar from becoming instantly clogged with sticky bitumen.

Generously spray a 40cm x 40cm section with clay lubricant. The surface must be 'dripping' wet. The goal is to create a hydrodynamic barrier between the clay and the paint to prevent marring (fine scratches).

Using light finger pressure, glide the clay bar across the lubricated section in straight, overlapping lines (horizontal then vertical). Do not use circular motions. You will initially feel and hear 'resistance' or a grit-like sound. This is the clay shearing off the contaminants.

Continue gliding the clay until it moves silently and effortlessly across the surface. Once the resistance is gone, the panel is mechanically clean. Use your hand inside a thin plastic sandwich bag to feel the paint; the bag amplifies any remaining imperfections.

After every section, inspect the face of the clay bar. If it looks brown or grey, fold the clay in half and knead it until a fresh, clean surface is exposed. This is vital to ensure you aren't rubbing trapped grit back into the next panel.

Once the entire vehicle (including glass, which can also be clayed) is finished, perform a final wash with a mild shampoo to remove all traces of clay lubricant and dissolved contaminants. This ensures a 'naked' surface.

Dry the vehicle thoroughly. Spray a 20% IPA solution or a dedicated panel prep (like Koch Chemie FW) onto a clean microfiber and wipe each panel. This removes any remaining surfactants or oils from the clay lube, preparing the surface for protection.