Advanced Brake Dust Removal and Wheel Decontamination (Jan 2026)

Crucial for Australian summers: ensure the wheels are cool to the touch. If the vehicle was recently driven, wait at least 45 minutes. Spraying cold water or chemicals onto a hot rotor can cause 'warping' or thermal shock, potentially cracking ceramic brake components or damaging the wheel's temper.

Position the vehicle in a fully shaded area. In 40°C heat, chemicals will flash-dry on the surface in seconds, leading to permanent chemical staining. If no shade is available, work on one wheel at a time, keeping the others wet with a fine mist of water to keep surface temperatures down.

Prepare your wash bucket with 10L of water and 50ml of high-lubricity car shampoo. If using a concentrated wheel cleaner (non-acidic), dilute it in a separate spray bottle according to the manufacturer's 'heavy soil' ratio, typically 4:1 or 5:1 for initial decontamination.

Before getting the wheels wet, inspect for 'white corrosion' or clear coat failure. If the clear coat is peeling, avoid aggressive chemical cleaners as they will seep under the coating and lift it further. Use only pH-neutral shampoo in these specific areas.

Use a pressure washer to remove loose grit, red dust, and surface salt. Aim the nozzle at a 45-degree angle to the wheel face. This removes the 'top layer' of abrasives, preventing you from grinding them into the finish during the agitation stages. Spend 60 seconds per wheel focusing on the barrels and calipers.

Apply your alkaline wheel cleaner or degreaser to the tyre sidewall and wheel face. Let it dwell for 2 minutes. This breaks down tyre 'blooming' (that brown oxidation) and organic road film. Do not let it dry. Use a stiff tyre brush on the rubber only, and a soft brush on the wheel face.

Spray the Iron Fallout Remover liberally across the dry wheel surface, including the barrel. Within 30-60 seconds, you should see a 'bleeding' effect where the clear liquid turns deep purple. This is the chemical reaction identifying and dissolving embedded iron particles. In Australian summer, keep the surface damp by misting occasionally with water if it looks like it's drying.

Insert your long-reach barrel brush into the wheel, reaching all the way to the back. Scrub in a back-and-forth motion, rotating the brush as you go. This is where the heaviest brake dust resides. Ensure you rinse the brush in your Grit Guard bucket frequently to remove the metallic sludge you've just displaced.

Using a small boar's hair brush, work the iron remover into the lug nut holes and around the valve stem. These are 'trap areas' where salt and dust collect. Use circular motions with light pressure. The chemical is doing the heavy lifting; you are simply ensuring the chemical reaches every crevice.

If your vehicle has painted calipers (common on performance Australian V8s), use a dedicated soft brush to clean the caliper face. Brake dust is highly abrasive; if left on calipers, the heat of braking will bake it into the paint, leading to a dull, matte finish that cannot be easily restored.

Thoroughly rinse the entire wheel, tyre, and wheel arch. Ensure no purple residue remains in the lug nut holes or behind the spokes. Chemical residue left in these areas can cause 'run lines' or etching once the vehicle is driven and the wheels heat up again.

If the wheel still feels 'gritty' to the touch after the chemical rinse, use a dedicated wheel clay bar or clay mitt with plenty of soapy water as lubricant. This pulls out any remaining non-ferrous contaminants that the iron remover couldn't dissolve.

Use a dedicated microfibre drying towel or an air blower to remove all water. In coastal areas, drying is essential to prevent water spotting from high-mineral content water. Pay special attention to the lug nuts where water pools and can cause 'tea staining' or surface rust on the studs.

Apply a high-temperature wheel sealant or SiO2-based spray. This creates a sacrificial layer that prevents brake dust from bonding directly to the clear coat. In the Australian sun, look for products with UV inhibitors to prevent the 'yellowing' of the wheel's clear finish over time.